Weather conditions:
High: 89 record high
Low: 65
Skies: intermittent clouds and sun
Winds: SW 10-15 mph
Today’s mileage: 16 miles
Total mileage: 47 miles
Where we traveled: Floyd’s Island cabin to Cedar Hammock platform
Alligator sightings today: 79
Total for the trip: 119
Ate:
Breakfast: granola
Dinner: taco mac and cheese and wine (there’s a theme here)
Dessert: banana bread
6:38 a.m.
Today could be a long day. There are a couple of different possible paths to choose from, depending on our energy level and the condition of each path—currents, twists, narrow paths, etc.
Time to get busy…
8:51 a.m.
The fog drips on the surrounding plants. A catbird squawks in the distance. Last night, as I stayed awake “listening” for the mice and racoons (no signs of their existence were discovered this morning), barred owls talked in the distance.
Cabin swept, gear portaged 100 yards to the other side of the island. We are almost ready to launch.
On the river by 9:30??
7:00 p.m.
We are in the tent to escape the mosquitos. Our last full day on the river was a tiring one—16 miles. It may not sound like a lot, but there was hardly any current. The first mile was narrow, windy, shallow, and full of peat. We fought the wind for the next seven miles as we traversed through a prairie. It was difficult to stay on course.
We detoured off the planned path and took a much-needed break at the Round Top platform. Charles and David kindly shared their reserved space with us for a snack break.
Charles is from Portland, Oregon, and has paddled the Everglades many times. David is from Atlanta, Georgia. I know little about him since Charles did most of the talking.
After eight miles of torture and 17 alligator sightings, we turned onto the Suwannee River canal. Our energy returned as we paddled what seemed like a four-lane highway protected from the wind. Surprisingly, more alligators were seen, despite the deep water. We saw 59 in the next seven miles. They entertained us as they swam with us and under our canoe. But we still remained alert as we checked the banks for alligators ready to jump and scanned the water ahead for eyes peering at us.
Two couples greeted us as we docked at Coffee Bay Landing for a break. This platform was built on dry ground, with a composting toilet a few yards at the end of a path. Even though overnight camping is prohibited on the platform, they had loaded their two canoes with skillets, grills, stoves, coolers, and other overnight gear. They were comfortable playing spades at the picnic table. Why didn’t they wait to play cards on their reserved platform?
Carpenter bees buzzed the area. Even though these bees don’t sting unless provoked, their activity concerned me.
After a pee and snack break, we returned to the water. Seven miles later, an alligator greeted us as we turned onto the path to our night platform.
We passed two guys fishing out of their boat. The only people we have seen since we launched are the couple in the motorboat (twice) while John and Gary pulled up their pants after peeing, Charles and David at Round Top, the two couples of Coffee Bay Landing, and the two fishermen. We have seen more alligators than people. We like it that way.
An Ibis, Sally, led the way to our home for the night.
We landed at Cedar Hammock platform at 4:15. Unlike the other platforms where we stayed, this one is plastic and floats.
When we first got here, the wind carried the stench from the outhouse towards the platform. Thankfully, the wind has died, and the smell is tolerable. A tradeoff for having an accessible toilet.
A small alligator, Laverne, popped his head up to say hi. He didn’t stay very long.
Tent erected. (We are getting better at securing our tent to the platform poles.) Drone flown. Supper eaten. The mosquitoes arrived just as the sun was setting, so we escaped to our tents.
With both tents rain-flyless, the protocol is to announce indecent exposure.
A more relaxed day tomorrow, with just three miles. Then do the shuttle dance, to the hotel, shower, and margaritas. We’ll need two drinks to make up for the ones we missed on Sunday.
Another alligator, Gary, swam up the canal while we were eating and is still hanging out beside our platform.
The trip is almost complete.